Finding the perfect pair of hair cutting scissors

While there are many tips and tricks for cutting hair properly, one of the first steps is to begin with a good pair of hair shears. Whether you are new to the world of hair shears or you have been cutting hair for a while but want to get a new pair of scissors, you may be feeling overwhelmed by all the options out there. Today, we are going to explain how to find the perfect one for you.

At the start, choosing the right scissors, or hair shears, can be daunting: so many different handle sizes, blade lengths, types of blades, and that’s just the beginning! However, taking the time to look at each aspect of a pair of shears to determine what best suits your needs can make a huge difference in the results in your hair cuts.

STRENGTH

First, the hair shears should be strong and durable. We recommend a steel grade of at least 440c and a hardness of 55-56 HRC.

SIZE

Hair shears come in several different sizes, and you should choose one that fits your hand the best. For most people, a 4.5-inch-5.5-inch pair is ideal. You can measure the pair against your hand by placing the finger hole at the base of your thumb. The tip of the blade should rest near the end of your middle finger. If your shears are too small you cannot move your fingers and hand easily; if they are too large you will have poor control over your blade.

BLADE LENGTHS

There are many different blade lengths. Short blades (which are usually about 5 inches long) are best for small sections of hair. With them, you can do very precise work, such as cutting around the hairline at the neck. Medium blades (sometimes also called small straight blades, about 5.5”) are the standard size of hair shears. They are also good to use around the hairline and ears. If you are holding the hair with your fingers, you should use small straight shears, however you can also use longer blades (6 inches or large) to cut hair with the finger method. (Do not use blades smaller than 5.5 inches to cut hair over your fingers because there is greater risk of slicing into your fingers with smaller blades.) The longer blades (also called large straight blades) are ideal for slicing and layering hair. A longer blade is best to use for wet or thick hair, to style a bob, or to use when cutting hair over a comb. If you are cutting bangs or other hair near the face, consider using a longer blade so that your hand is not as close to the face.

BLADE SHAPES

Blades also come in two basic shapes. The beveled blade is straight and flat. It is usually lighter and a bit more inexpensive. Beveled blades often have one serrated edge and are usually better to use on dry hair. They are better suited for details, layering, tapering, and softer finishes. It is difficult to slice cut with beveled blades. Convex blades, on the other hand, are excellent at slicing and slide cutting. They are your best all-around blade and our recommendation here at Precision Hair Shears. Convex blades are smooth and usually made solid stainless steel and so they are a little more expensive and heavier; however, they are the best blade for getting strong and precise cuts.

HANDLES

Hair shear handles are designed in one of three ways. The handles can be even (also known as opposing) in which both handles are symmetrical. This allows for the hand and arm to be in a neutral position with the thumb and middle finger in each handle. The offset handle has one handle longer than the other. The thumb and ring finger fit in the handle holes and the arm and elbow can rest lower. This leads to a more relaxed position for the shoulder and arm and is more comfortable. Finally, the crane position is also offset, but the top handle is very straight, and the elbow can rest even lower. The crane handle causes even less strain on the wrist and shoulder.

THUMB GRIP

Finally, the thumb grip! There are four main options: standard, cutaway, anatomic, and rotating. The standard thumb grip has a finger resting piece that is removable and reversible so that the hair shears can be used in the right or left hand. The cutaway is usually considered the most comfortable. The anatomic thumb grip lets your thumb have more radial movement. Finally, the rotating thumb grip is mobile and more comfortable. The rotating thumb grip causes less strain to the hand and wrist. You should try handling hair shears with each thumb grip to determine which one you prefer.

You may find yourself overwhelmed with all the different hair shears. Don't worry! Most professionals building up your collection to at least three or four different pairs, allowing you to have options. Choose the size that fits you best, then select a few different blade types and shapes. Handles and thumb grips are totally up to your preference so take time to try out a few and see what you prefer. Happy cutting!